The late afternoon sunshine bathes the fifty-four gothic towers of the Bayon temple in a gentle warm light. The sun’s slow progressive setting casts deep shadows on the two hundred and sixteen large faces of Avalokitesharva, ” the Lord who looks down”, carved on each of the four facets of every tower.

They “see” us before we see them. Yet we become aware of their presence almost immediately on entering the water.

While on a story for African Diver Magazine in the Bazaruto archipelago investigating conservation efforts to conserve a dwindling population of large sanguine, sea grass-eating mammals known as dugongs, I came to learn of the artisanal fishing people of the Mozambican coastline and their struggle to survive. 

And there is only one place I know in Mozambique where the world does not seem to spin crazily, where cell phones do not work and the Internet seems worthless.

Wakatobi’s house reef will keep you occupied for ages and I found myself spending ages snorkeling on the reef with my camera.