They “see” us before we see them. Yet we become aware of their presence almost immediately on entering the water.

While on a story for African Diver Magazine in the Bazaruto archipelago investigating conservation efforts to conserve a dwindling population of large sanguine, sea grass-eating mammals known as dugongs, I came to learn of the artisanal fishing people of the Mozambican coastline and their struggle to survive. 

And there is only one place I know in Mozambique where the world does not seem to spin crazily, where cell phones do not work and the Internet seems worthless.